|The Captain at Millstone|
We started the day with John leading Embankment 1 (pitch 1) with a very hung-over me seconding. In hindsight I felt that both of us made this climb look a lot harder than it should have been. I decided to jump straight onto a VS, Embankment 2, as true to the previous description if you want to lead something good you need to be climbing at VS. I cannot describe how much of a pleasure it was to lead this climb. Twin cracks provide abundant foot holds and jams whilst the right hand crack is perfect for protection throughout (tactical nuts at the start before cams towards the end). I honestly think that I can call the lead of this climb my best lead ever! Unfortunately to get the full tick I lead the top pitch as well which I found a right struggle and felt pretty shaky on throughout. However this did not take away from the overall sense of achievement of the lead of the first pitch.
|Embankment 2, VS 4c|
|The Captain on Embankment 3, E1 5b|
With the weather closing in I had a brave attempt at Bond Street, HVS 5a, which would have been my first of the grade, however despite good technique on the lower crack my strength began to fail me on entering the first niche and after two rests I decided to lower off and save the route for a more stylistic ascent on another day.
|Bond Street . . . I'll be back!|
|Millstone gear rescue service (Bond Street)|